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Description:Cooking Issues Goes to Tsukiji June 15th 2012 · Uncategorized by Dave Arnold Frozen Blue-fin Tuna in a loader at Tsukiji Market Tsukiji is the largest and most important of Tokyo’s wholesale markets Unlike any other market I’ve visited the selling at Tukiji is organized into auctions between large wholesalers and middlemen These
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Cooking Issues The International Culinary Center's Tech 'N Stuff Blog front page About SKOAL! Primers Press Radio Forums -- RSS Order Your Searzall March 3rd, 2014 · Uncategorized Comments Off Tags: The Searzall: Now On Kickstarter November 29th, 2013 · Uncategorized by Paul Adams You’ve been waiting for months for the Searzall hand-held power broiler. Here it is! Contribute on Kickstarter today! → 5 Comments Tags: searzall New Technique: Pressure Pickle and the Cucumber Martini August 3rd, 2013 · cocktails , vacuum infusion by Dave Arnold Gin-pickled cucumber, served If you have a chamber vacuum sealer, you can use the vacuum to do a kind of rapid pickling, forcing a liquid (such as gin) into a solid (such as cucumber). If you don’t have a chamber vacuum sealer, that’s been a hard trick to pull off. I use an ISI whipper for rapid infusion into liquids, because under pressure, liquid is forced into the pores of foods and then that same liquid violently boils out when pressure is released, bringing the flavor with it. The liquid takes on the flavor of the solid, which is good. When you are trying to put flavor from the liquid into the solid, instead of the flavor of the solid into the liquid, the boiling is a problem because the liquid doesnât stay inside the solid. The solution is pressure pickling. Equipment: ISI 1 liter cream whipper 2 chargers (either CO 2 or N 2 O) 3 âSandwich Sizeâ sized Ziploc bags Microplane Ingredients: 2 cucumbers (577 grams), seeds removed, cut into 28 planks no thicker than 5/16 inch (8mm). Yield: 210 grams (eat or juice the rest) 200 ml gin 50 ml Dolin Blanc sweet white vermouth 10 ml 1:1 simple syrup 1 ml 20% saline solution Lime Maldon salt Cucumber planks Technique: Combine gin, vermouth, simple syrup and saline solution. Divide the liquid and cucumber planks between the Ziploc bags. Remove the air from the Ziploc bags by immersing them in water. To do this, get a container of water larger than the bags. Seal each bag starting from one side and allow only the corner to remain unsealed. Put your finger in the open spot and hold the bag up from that point so the bag looks diamond shaped. Immerse the bag in water till the water level almost reaches the open spot by your finger while freeing any air pockets in the submerged bag with your free hand. Seal the bag. There should be almost no air in the bags. Roll the bags up and put it in the ISI whipper. Add water to the fill line (this makes the venting procedure more gentle on your product. Seal the whipper and charge with 1 cartridge. Agitate mildly for a couple of seconds and allow the product to rest for 2 minutes. Slowly vent the whipper. Go slow. If you vent too quickly youâll spoil the infusion. Allow the bags to rest in the whipper for 5 minutes. During this time air will be leaving the cucumber. Apply a second charger, agitate mildly and allow to rest 2 minutes. Vent slowly and remove the bag from the whipper. Drain the cucumbers (drink the booze). Zest some lime peel on top and sprinkle with Maldon salt. Use cucumber within 2 hours or it will lose some of its crunch. After pickling Comments Off Tags: Recipe Quest: Shear-Thickening Starch Noodles April 29th, 2013 · Uncategorized by Paul Adams Last week, the landlord of this blog spotted an intriguing video online of a man in China making noodles. Look at that. The guy’s got a big bowl of white non-Newtonian goo. When he smacks it or squeezes it, it’s as firm as clay, but when he leaves it alone, it’s fluid enough to drizzle through the holes in his colander. When he drips it into boiling water, it gels up into perfectly lovely, easy noodles. Rheology at work! Can we do that at home? I tried mixing up a classic oobleckian starch slurry and dribbling it into boiling water. It didn’t hang together well in noodle shapes, and as soon as it hit the water, the starch dispersed and just made the water cloudy. Time for some internet research. A critical clue came from EatingAsia, where a very appetizing article about a Sichuan treat indicates that the noodles in the video are not rice noodles, as the video caption has it, but familiar glassy noodles made with starch from sweet potatoes . Sweet potato starch noodles are also popular in Korean cuisine, where they’re called dangmyun and form the foundation of japchae, which I have for lunch at least a couple times a month. Japchae is a popular dish. Surely the internet has recipes for making your own dangmyun at home, right? Well, not in English, as far as I can find. Every result for my “glass noodles from scratch” searches led off with “Ingredients: one pound dry noodles.” Thanks, English-language internet. The closest I came was this page , which seems, as far as I can tell from the rather infelicitous translation from the Chinese, to be talking about the same thing: raw materials: 5000 grams sweet potato starch, alum 35-40 grams, 125-130 grams of cooked qian paste. Production: 1, the alum research into fine powder, add water, stir well made of 100 grams of alum water. 2, cooked qian paste into the basin, add sweet potato starch, water 2000 grams, alum powder moderately hard and soft water bunched up into groups inactive. 3, with a large aluminum scoop will be used to tool to plug into a soybean-sized hole in the powder group bailer installed, use the palm to make it into the group shot powder into the boiling water, drain lines, pot boiled, and then pick into the Serve cold in cold water floating âwater noodles.â After reading this over a few times, I made a lovely squishy-firm goo using sweet potato starch and alum. This one held together nicely in noodle shapes when I dripped it through a colander, but still, as soon as it hit the boiling water, it dispersed. I was lacking the qian paste. From my smattering of Mandarin, I know that qián (é±) means ‘money’. Where was my money paste? The original Chinese is on the same page, below the “English” version. Scrolling down, I found the actual Chinese character is è¡, romanized as qià n : different tone, different word. It refers to the gorgon or foxnut plant (not to be confused with salep ) whose starch is used as a thickener in Chinese cooking. With no foxnut starch handy, I focused on the requirement that it should be cooked starch. A modicum of starch gelatinized by cooking would add some cohesiveness to the raw goo. Separately heating a portion of my sweet potato starch slurry turned it into a firm, rubbery, translucent off-white glob that reminded me of a giant glass noodle. Now we were on the right track. It turns out that making fresh glass noodles at home is simple and fun. Why is that such a secret? photo by Dan Nosowitz Update, May 5: in the comments, Hannes pointed out that in China it’s illegal to use alum in glass noodles. Alum is controlled in the EU as well, due to concerns about aluminum toxicity. Click the image at right to see what Kalustyan’s says. I have replaced alum with chitosan in the recipe below, a possible substitution I spotted in a Korean journal. Chitosan, like alum, has a positive charge in water, and it holds the starch network together very nicely. Most commercial chitosan is derived from shellfish, but there’s some made from mushrooms instead. Drip Noodles alum chitosan, 1% solution, available from winemaking suppliers water sweet potato starch 1. Fill a container with room-temperature water and dissolve alum into it. I only had an alum block, not alum powder, so I didn’t measure the exact quantity of alum that went into my water. But here’s how much it was: enough to drop the pH of tap water from 7.1 to 2.8. I’m not sure precisely what the alum is doing. It’s always used in homemade play-doh recipes, where it’s cited as a preservative but surely serves a textural purpose as well, stabilizing or strengthening the starch’s molecular network. 1. Fill a container with room-temperature water. For every liter of water, stir in 80 ml of chitosan solution. Much more than that and the n...
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